April Adventures – Part II

Spišská Belá and Mountain Lakes

After an unexpectedly great week in Snina, I decided to head out to meet Chris in Spišská Belá for the weekend before we both headed to Sabinov. Chris had been spoiled all week by two teachers from his school and their hospitality continued on into the weekend. On friday night, after settling into the quaint village for a bit, we went to the Drum Cafe for some drinks and good conversation. The teachers, Dagmara and Katka, spoke English fantastically. We spent most of the night laughing, but made a little bit of time for planning an excursion in the Tatras the next day.

Katka proved to be an expert on all of the nooks and crannies of the mountains. She and Dagmara (Dada, as she is affectionately known) were nice enough to pick us up the next morning and take us to a part of the Tatras we had never seen before.  We arrived in Vysoké Tatry by mid-morning. While Katka is an expert on the mountains themselves, she was a little more shaky on specific directions. But, we still eventually found the first lake she wanted to show us hidden behind the Grand Hotel Kempinski, a place my salary is still several zeroes short of affording. The morning had started out gloomy, but the mountains began to show through the wisps while we stood there, allowing for a great view of the peaks behind the lake.

Hotel Patria and a frozen Štrbské Pleso.

The beautiful, five-star Grand Hotel Kempinski that I was certainly not staying in.

After seeing the first lake, we crisscrossed around the resort town for a bit in search of a trailhead that would take us between the mountains to another more secluded lake. While it took us a moment to get oriented, when found the trail without too much effort. From there, we started up a casual incline with snow that was luckily still frozen enough to stand on without falling through, mostly. As we hiked, we could see people skiing and celebrating the final days of the season on the other side of the valley, which set a festive mood. As we moved further into the mountains, the scenery became more limited thanks to storm clouds forming overhead. But, even though we were miserably underdressed (it had seemed so nice at the bottom), the light exercise and mild temperature kept us warm enough over the nearly two hours it took us to reach our destination.

The biggest ski jump I’ve ever seen.

When we first arrived at the second lake, Popradské Pleso, we could clearly see the near side and make out some figures climbing on the mountains above, but I knew we were missing out on the grand experience thanks to the weather. Somewhat disappointed, but eager to be out of the dampness, we hurried into the lakeside hotel and restaurant to lift our spirits with some traditional, cheesy, doughy, Slovak cuisine.

A plate of halušky and a few bites of pirohy did the trick. A half-hour later and seemingly a few pounds heavier, we were ready to make the trip back the way we had came. When we walked out the door, we were excited to find a much more exposed lake with big chunks of blue sky in front of us. Seeing it in its entirety not only made the whole trek more fulfilling, but also added yet another item to my list of things I would like to come back and see again in the summer.

Our destination, Popradské Pleso.

The walk home proved to be even easier than our journey to the lake, and was also more enjoyable with the sun shining down on us. Mountains we hadn’t been aware of on our way in appeared, dramatically white and dark on a suddenly bluebird sky. We made our way back to the village much more quickly than we had come, meaning we fit two mountain lakes, several miles of hiking and loads of sheep cheese all into about four hours.

After a scenic ride home, we took some time to refresh and regroup. We met back up at Dada’s house later in the evening to feast and socialize.  Dada generously fed us some more delicious pirohy and single-handedly inspired my new obsession with bagel chips. She also shared two of her great obsessions with us; ice dancing and Audrey Hepburn. Amazingly, I had spent 23 years in this world without ever seeing “Breakfast at Tiffany’s,” which was something Dada could not allow. After the movie, some World Ice Dancing Championship recordings and a few plays off the Les Misérables, Chris and I headed out into the quaint village streets, feeling considerably more cultured than we had before.

The sun came out in full force on our way back.

View from Zobor – Nitra, Slovakia

The weather broke just in time for a view from Nitra’s highest point. It’s good to be back. More to come soon.

Slovak Paradise

Some perfect timing for perfect weather made for an amazing visit to Slovensky Raj this weekend. More about hiking through forest, rock, river and darkness soon.

Bojnice Castle

My last two weeks were spent under the shadow of this castle in Bojnice, Slovakia. More to come soon.

Views From the Wonderous Wolkersdorf Wanderpuzzle

I’ve liked Wolkersdorf from the start. From the moment Chris and I stepped off the train, people have been extremely friendly and have gone out of their way to be kind and polite. (A free ride from the train station is especially appreciated after nearly 24 hours of travel with 50-plus pounds of luggage.)  The quaint town is impeccably clean with the perfect combination of preservation of the historic and introduction of the modern.  The scenery, both in the village and on the countryside is stunning, and you can’t help but notice that none of the bicycles contributing to the high cycling-to-driving ratio in this town are ever locked up.

As though I wasn’t already contemplating ways to make a semi-permanent move here, we came across Wolkersdorf Wanderpuzzle, a network of biking and walking trails throughout the Wolkersdorf village and countryside. The trails led us through charming neighborhoods and up hillside vineyards to a view of Wolkersdorf’s pride and joy: their windmills.  Although I’m not normally a fan of the rotating steal monsters, in this setting I see them for the majestic, powerful, looming giants others claim them to be. It may be partially because clean energy they provide fits in so organically with this pedestrian heavy, environmentally conscious and seemingly pollution-free town.  While I know this first location is setting the bar high for things to come, it is always nice to start out on a good foot.

View of Wolkersdorf and its windmills.

Victoriously biking up the giant hill

Chris becoming one with the willow tree.

Apparently what Austrians keep in their garages?

Practically an Austrian Hobbit Hole

Costa Rica So Far: The Good, The Bad and The Beautiful

A bold monkey in Manuel Antonio

Ok, so I’ve been here in Costa Rica for two weeks thus far.  After extensive time in San Jose during the week broken up by weekends in two diverse, yet equally beautiful places (the beach at Manuel Antonio and the rainforest/volcano landscape in La Fortuna), I feel adequately informed to share my findings, both on the pro and con side.

The Good

• The People: Costa Ricans, or Ticos, as they call themselves are wonderfully good natured and hospitable. I don’t know if I’ve ever heard anyone laugh as often or as heartily as my host mother, and that seems to be the trend amongst all Ticos.  Their generous hearts and big smiles, as well as their eagerness to show you this amazing country they call home, makes it easy to see why so many people fall in love with Costa Rica
• The Food: The most common meal here, called a casado, consists of hefty portions of rice, beans, a tortilla, salad, some form of meat (either beef, chicken or fish), and my favorite, fried plantains. These delicious platters are extremely cheap (around $6 generally) at Costa Rican cafes called sodas, which can be found around every corner.  Seafood of all sorts is obviously exceptional here and the huge variety of fresh fruit is unbeatable.
• Ease of  Transport: Although I am stuck in class all day Monday-Friday, CR’s unbelievable inexpensive transportation, combined with the compact size of the diverse country makes getting the most out of the weekends so easy.  Buses leave to desirable locations several times a day, beginning in the very early morning, which accommodates head starts on the day.  Three or four hour bus rides can take you to diverse parts of the country including the beach, rainforests or volcanos for well under $10, making short trips sensible and affordable for everyone.
• The Colors: Of course CR’s landscape showcases an array of colors, but so does everything else here.  Fences, walls and buildings are generally painted vibrant hues and even in a hazy city, the pops of color raise your mood.  The festive paint jobs all over reinforce the laid back vibe you already feel here.

The Bad

• San Jose’s Pollution and Trash: For a country as green and environmentally friendly as rainforest-covered Costa Rica, the state of San Jose will be a surprise to most.  Lack of trash receptacles around the city leaves most streets littered with garbage.  Also the air is thick here as is the traffic, and suffocating exhaust clouds as you walk down the sidewalk are not uncommon.  San Jose is definitely worth seeing and has a lot to offer for students etc., but if your goal is ecotourism, a day should be more than sufficient.
• No Addresses!?: The rest of the world may follow the number, street, city formula, but Costa Ricans seem not to want or need them.  Locations are described instead by a distance from an intersection of two roads or from one of the many Catholic churches throughout the city.  While this may be more than sufficient for one familiar with the city, visitors should be aware and make sure they have a detailed description of where they want to go.
• Cab Scams: Especially in San Jose, but throughout all of C.R. you must be careful of what cab you get into.  Only cabs with triangular yellow stickers on the front and top as well as a lighted taxi sign on top are official.  Take only these cabs unless you wish to pay obnoxiously inflated prices.  Other cab drivers will be waiting at bus stops and try to convince you to ride with them. Unless they have the appropriate cars and reset the meter to the standard 585 colones start point, do NOT go with them. It may be necessary to walk a little ways away from the tourist trapped bus arrivals.

And of course, The Beautiful

All of the stereotypical things you’ve heard about Costa Rica are all true.  The landscapes and wildlife here are so diverse and easy to access.  The country is smothered in green foliage, splattered with brightly colored flowers and accented with white-sand beaches and perfect blue-green ocean.  I’ve seen more new sorts of wildlife here in the past two weeks than the last six years of my life combined.  Sloths, monkeys, lizards and exotic birds are all likely to show their quirky faces to you at one point or another during your visit.  The waterfalls and volcanos will not disappoint. In fact, Arenal may provide the most perfect prototype of a volcano on earth with its smoking top and misty, forested sides. And of course, anywhere you want to zip, bungee, canyon, raft or ride, Costa Rica will make it possible with the friendliest guides you could imagine. Even with its reputation as an ecotourism jackpot, Costa Rica will probably still exceed your expectations.

Famous Words of Wisdom on Travel and Adventurous Living

Matador Network’s book No Foreign Lands has two of my favorite things: beautiful photography and good literature.  I recently looked through the compilation of great quotes about travel on the backdrop of stunning images from around the world. Inspired, I made a list of my own favorite insights on travel, adventure and the like.

“Once in a while it really hits people that they don’t have to experience the world in the way they have been told to.” – Alan Keightley

“A journey is a person in itself; no two are alike. And all plans, safeguards, policing, and coercion are fruitless. We find that after years of struggle that we do not take a trip; a trip takes us.”- John Steinbeck

‘It’s a dangerous business, Frodo, going out your door. You step onto the road, and if you don’t keep your feet, there’s no knowing where you might be swept off to.” -J.R.R. Tolkien

“Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.” –Mark Twain

“Don’t be afraid of death; be afraid of an unlived life. You don’t have to live forever, you just have to live.” – Natalie Babbitt

“Travel is like love, mostly because it’s a heightened state of awareness, in which we are mindful, receptive, undimmed by familiarity and ready to be transformed. That is why the best trips, like the best love affairs, never really end.” - Pico Iyer

“If we are always arriving and departing, it is also true that we are eternally anchored. One’s destination is never a place but rather a new way of looking at things.” – Henry Miller

“Though we travel the world over to find the beautiful, we must carry it with us or we find it not.” – Ralph Waldo Emerson

“Wandering re-establishes the original harmony which once existed between man and the universe.” – Anatole France

“What you’ve done becomes the judge of what you’re going to do, 
especially in other people’s minds.
 When you’re traveling, you are what you are
 right there and then.
 People don’t have your past to hold against you.
 No yesterdays on the road.
” – William Least Heat-Moon

Five Legitimate Excuses to Live Abroad

While I’m by no means an expert or even experienced, I have conducted my own informal research project on working opportunities abroad.  Scouring for ways to travel long-term and still generate an income has been my favorite procrastination method.  It hasn’t all been in vain.  I do plan to pursue teaching English abroad. But in order to put my hours clicking through possibilities to good use (and procrastinate in studying for finals), I will share my findings.  Perhaps another irresponsible student with a case of wanderlust will be inspired.

Teach English – Teaching English abroad is a popular way to get overseas, and for good reason.  A high demand for native English speakers to TEFL (Teaching English as a Foreign Language) or TESOL (Teaching English to Speakers of Other Languages) means new positions are opening all the time.  TEFL teachers don’t need a degree in education.  A Bachelor’s degree in some discipline is usually necessary and most (but not all) language schools require a TEFL/TESOL certificate. Certification can be obtained online or in a classroom setting through a variety of programs, some of which occur abroad.  Pay varies widely depending on region.  While you can make enough to break even in Europe or South America, teachers can save as much as $1,000 a month in Eastern Asia, where demand is highest.  Africa and Central Asia also offer opportunities, but usually on a volunteer basis.

 WWOOF (World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms) – As funny as the acronym sounds, WWOOFing provides serious hands-on experience on organic farms around the world. The volunteer technically aren’t paid, but WWOOF farmers provide food, accommodation and opportunities to learn about organic lifestyles.  WWOOF farms in the U.S. provide opportunities for those who wish to stay closer to home.  However, there are also farms in over 30 countries with diverse environments.  Volunteers can find farmers in need searching help in places as diverse as Switzerland, Sierra Leone, Argentina and Bangladesh.  Volunteers will mix cultural immersion with sustainable development so both parties benefit.

Campervans: The Ultimate Road Trip Solution

 “I saw in their eyes something I was to see over and over in every part of the nation – a burning desire to go, to move, to get under way, anyplace, away from Here… Nearly every American hungers to move.” -John Steinbeck, Travels With Charley

A campervan travels through the Redwood Forest

The Great American Road Trip.   I have yet to take one, but I feel that with a country as expansive and diverse as the United States, one full traverse is necessary to truly understand what the familiar outline of the 48 states on a map represents.

For any others who feel the road calling their name, a rising trend makes executing a cross-country excursion easier. Campervans, generally popular in Europe and increasingly so in Oceania, are becoming more common in the United States.

Campervans, which act as compact recreational vehicles, provide both transport and accommodation for those on the move.  With seating and sleeping space for four, a propane-powered cooker, a refrigerator and a sink, campervans possess the convenience of a traditional RV (minus the bathroom) in an environmentally friendlier, and much cooler package.

Snippets of Griffis Sculpture Park

I’ve driven past the sign for Griffis Sculpture Park hundreds of time on my way to Buffalo. The aging wooden advertisement accompanied by a primary colored structure along US Route 219 in Ashford, NY always mildly interested me.  However time never allowed me to actually venture off-course and view these alleged sculptures.  But this week, when I finally made the turn off the main route, I found the sculpture park, which holds the distinction of being one of the largest and oldest in the country, to be an otherworldly experience.

The two park locations act as an outdoor art museum.  Larger-than-life sculptures loom in open fields and others peek from between the trees besides paths in the woods.  Such unique structures in such an unsuspected location can leave visitors feeling as though they stumbled upon something almost extraterrestrial. Art set against the backdrop of the natural environment is rarely seen at such a large scale and is most definitely worth the detour to Griffis Sculpture Park.